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Gourmet
November 1, 2004
How to Pick a Cruise
by Heidi Sarna and Matt Hannafin
Cruises are one of those you-either-get-it-or-you-don't sort of things. More than 8 million Americans took them in 2003, but, to a lot of other people, they're more like car wrecks: You might slow down to gawk, but you're happy not to be involved. It didn't used to be that way. For decades, sea cruising was romance itself, but that was before booze cruises and The Love Boat sent that whole image south. (Believe us, if they were all buffets, beer bellies, and bingo, we'd run screaming, too.) The fact is, most cruises are wonderful, magical, easy to love. But keep these considerations in mind before you decide to sign on.
Yes, the average passenger age is still high. But we've sailed on ships with people ages 20 to 90, and some of the oldsters were still whooping it up while the kids were in dreamland. No, you won't find the same adventure you'd have on a trek through Nepal; however, there are some cruises with main events like a five-mile hike across subarctic tundra. Yes, you get cuisine that's designed by a celebrity chef, even if you sometimes wonder whether the company bought his stamp of approval on eBay. (Other times, you'll want to kiss the entire waitstaff because your dinner was really that good.) No, you won't get an in-depth experience of the local culture. On the other hand, we've visited the home of a Yupik villager in Siberia, sipped tea with artists in Alaska, and spent a couple of days docked in historic cities like Bordeaux and St. Petersburg.
In the end, it's all about finding the right ship. So throw out the glossy brochures-it's time to talk straight about the cruise lines that matter.
Prices listed are per person, per day, and based on common discounts for lowest-priced outside cabins: $ (under $200), $$ ($200-$349), $$$ ($350- $499), $$$$ ($500 and up).
LUXURY LINES
The gold standard for service, cuisine, and world-ranging itineraries.
Crystal Cruises
The largest ultraluxe ships on the water, offering oodles of space, a yard-long list of activities, and worldwide destinations. (800-446-6620; crystalcruises.com; $$)
Best Ships Serenity, Symphony, Harmony.
Why This One? Crystal isn't shy about discounting, so your vacation money goes a long way. Boredom's not an option: At least one lecturer on history, politics, or topic X sails on every cruise; there are golf, dance, and piano lessons; and ¸ber-extensive computer centers provide free workshops in Web design, digital photography, etc. Frequent theme cruises focus on music, food, and wine.
Why Not? Staterooms and bathrooms are cozy-but not in a good way.
Best Bet: Dinner at Silk Road Restaurant on the Crystal Serenity, fronted by sushi guru Nobu Matsuhisa. There's no better Asian food at sea, and the restaurant's mint and white minimalism rates high marks for dÈcor. (Too bad it's so hard to get into and almost impossible to dine there more than once.)
Celebrity Chefs: Nobu Matsuhisa, Piero Selvaggio.
Cunard line
The most famous name afloat, with a long history and an even longer new flagship, the Queen Mary 2. (800-528-6273; cunard.com; $$)
Best Ships: QM2 for comfort, QE2 for history.
Why This One? Tell your grocer or golf partner you're sailing on the QM2, and you'll hear nothing but oohs and aahs.
No ship is sexier this year, especially on transatlantic sailings. Canyon Ranch's onboard SpaClub provides the works. (We're particularly enamored of the Mango Sugar Glo body scrub.) Oxford lecturers and one-acts from the Royal Academy of Dramatic Art are better than classes in napkin folding and a medley from Cats. The QM2 is a liner by design with old-time ambiance in her Chart Room bar, Queens Room, and enormous library. The QE2 is a liner in her bones, with the sleek look of a ship that was built for speed. She has, however, been banished from the Atlantic run, but will still be sailing out of Southampton (with a 110-day world sailing scheduled in 2005).
Why Not? The QM2 is more cruise ship than Cunard pretends, with Caribbean itineraries in winter. She also has some chintzy off-notes, including Disneyfied plastic wall panels in the central promenade.
Best Bet: Forward Deluxe Balcony Staterooms on the QM2's Deck 11, just steps from the little-used observation deck. (Walk out to enjoy the same view as those paying through the nose in the Royal Suites, one deck below.) Plus, from your side-facing balcony, you can flirt with officers on the bridge wings.
Celebrity Chef: Todd English.
Radisson Seven Seas Cruises
Luxury without hubris, sailing to quality ports around the world. (800-285-1835; rssc.com; $$$)
Best Ships: Mariner, Voyager, Navigator, Paul Gauguin.
Why This One? Here's a true luxury experience that's also sensibly priced, casual, and free of pretension. Dining throughout the fleet is top-notch, and the service is among the best in the business.
Seven Seas Voyager and Seven Seas Navigator also have some of the roomiest, most luxurious standard-cabin bathrooms at sea-huge and marbled, with separate showers and tubs.
Why Not? Less cost inclusive than luxe rivals Seabourn, SeaDream, and Silversea. Gratuities, dinner wine, and a one-time minibar fill-up are included, but you pay for all other liquor. Special shore events are only complimentary on the Seven Seas Voyager world cruise.
Best Bet: The Seven Seas Paul Gauguin's year-round Tahiti sailings, for which the line frequently offers free airfare and steep discounts.
Celebrity Chefs: None, but chefs from Le Cordon Bleu prepare menus in the specialty restaurants on Seven Seas Voyager and Seven Seas Mariner, and some cruises offer cooking workshops for an extra $395.
Seabourn Cruise Line
Old-school elegance. (800-929-9391; seabourn.com; $$$$)
Best Ships: Identical 208-passenger globe-trotting triplets-Pride, Spirit, and Legend.
Why This One? A class act for doyens of decorum, with white-gloved waiters and cuisine that provides the perfect excuse for fancy dress. The suites are swanky and the swag is sweet: Goodies include Piper-Heidsieck Champagne, Tumi luggage tags, and Molton Brown toiletries. Doting service includes neck and shoulder massages on deck and soothing eucalyptus oil baths drawn en suite. Fold-down watersports marinas mean you can walk from your suite right into the surf for swimming, kayaking, windsurfing, and snorkeling.
Why Not? No lounging on balconies-there aren't any. Instead, some suites have sliding glass doors that open to the outside.
Best Bet: A moonlight dinner at the outdoor cafe, with the silvery sea just below-a romantic must.
Celebrity Chef: Charlie Palmer.
SeaDream Yacht Club
Plays hard, but still keeps its upper-crust aura while hitting haute spots in the Caribbean, the Med, and the Yucat·n Peninsula. (800-707-4911; seadreamyachtclub.com; $$$)
Best Ships: Twin ex-Cunard yachts SeaDream I and SeaDream II.
Why This One? It's fun in a yacht-owning playboy sort of way, sans attitude, eveningwear, and the usual cruise hokum. Guy toys like Yamaha Jet Skis, Montague mountain bikes, Segways, and fully loaded MP3 players for the asking. These tiny yachts (110 passengers each) explore in depth, are able to dock at small piers close to the action (just steps from the Piazza San Marco, for instance), and often stay overnight so guests can take in some restaurants. Delicious meals on board, but nothing can top the lavish beach barbecues on Jost Van Dyke and Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands, where waiters carry Champagne and caviar through the surf to passengers frolicking ashore. SeaDream is another top-shelf player that's not too proud to discount. Per-person rates dip as low as $300 a day for cushy suites and include toys, spirits, and gratuities.
Why Not? What's not to love? But, as with the Seabourn and Windstar vessels, these 20-year-old ships are showing a bit of wear, mostly on their exteriors.
Best Bet: Getting dibs on one of the queen-size sun beds that line each vessel's top deck, with extra-thick mattresses, teak side tables, and beautiful sea views.
Silversea Cruises
Four chichi ships sail a sea of Champagne and caviar from Venice to Vietnam to ValparaÌso. (800-722-9955; silversea.com; $$$$)
Best Ships: Silver Shadow, Silver Whisper.
Why This One? Everything. From sublime food to sumptuous dÈcor, these 388-passenger, all-suite, Italian-built ships spell excellence at sea. Sip some Philipponnat Royale RÈserve, pop jumbo shrimp to your heart's content, then amble into a wine tasting, language lesson, or lecture on world affairs-everything but spa treatments and shore excursions is included. The Terrace CafÈ's themed six-course menus-ProvenÁal one night, Mediterranean the next. It's some of the best food at sea.
Why Not? Stuffy. The been-there-on-the-Concorde crowd can be chilly company for down-to-earth types.
Best Bet: Bathrooms. Each marble palace has double sinks and Bulgari toiletries, plus a separate shower stall and an extra-long bathtub.
Celebrity Chefs: Jacques Thorel, Joachim Koerper.
Windstar Cruises
The world's biggest motor-sail ships, carrying 148 to 308 passengers around the Med, the Caribbean, and the South Pacific. (800-258-7245; windstarcruises.com; $$)
Best Ships: Wind Surf, Wind Star, Wind Spirit.
Why This One? Tall-ship sailing without the rigmarole, as sails unfurl electronically and engines do most of the work. Retractable watersports marinas let you water-ski, snorkel, or take a kayak right out from the ship. Forget the formal wear: no jackets required-ever. Ships typically call on a port every day, with frequent overnight stays for exploring local nightlife. The alternative? Head back to the ship for great food.
Why Not? Windstar's ships are no spring chickens, with 14 to 18 years under their keels. They're comfortable but lived-in.
Best Bet: The once-a-week dinner party on deck, under sails and stars, as the ship glides away from Mykonos, St. Bart's, or St.-Tropez.
Celebrity Chef: Joachim Splichal.
ADVENTURE LINES
Cruise lines in name only, with small expedition ships taking 12 to 227 passengers far afield.
American Safari Cruises
Twelve- and 22-passenger yachts are the most intimate experience lots of money can buy on outings to Alaska, the Pacific Northwest, Mexico's Sea of CortÈs, and the rivers of California wine country. (888-862-8881; amsafari.com; $$$$)
Best Ships: Escape, Quest.
Why This One? If passengers want to change the itinerary, the captain just might turn the boat around and oblige. If you want a brand of Scotch that's not on board, they'll call ahead to get it for you. And if some folks want to kayak while others want to go bear watching, nobody's going to argue. Almost everything's included-not just drinks but also excursions like lunch in Napa's Clos Pegase wine caves.
Why Not? You pay for all that exclusivity, with per diems running from $500 to $750.
Best Bet: Charter the 12-passenger Safari Escape outright and you'll save 5 percent off the rack rate.
Clipper Cruise Line
Small ships (128 passengers maximum) with worldwide, learning-oriented itineraries. (800-325-0010; clippercruise.com; $$$)
Best Ships: Adventurer, Odyssey.
Why This One? Itineraries-from Antarctica to Greenland, China to Central America, with U.S. coastal spots thrown in for good measure. Onboard naturalists and historians provide insight for the typically big-brained passengers. Clipper Adventurer has an icebreaker hull that makes her perfect for Arctic, Antarctic, and Scandinavian cruises, plus renovations have imparted the feel of an old-time passenger ship. Totally classy. The sleek Clipper Odyssey is yin to Adventurer's yang, sailing to Japan's Inland Sea, Easter Island, Tahiti, New Zealand, Bora-Bora, and Russia's Kamchatka Peninsula.
Why Not? Quiet demographic. Don't go to swing.
Best Bet: Category 3 cabins on Clipper Adventurer and Category 2 on Clipper Odyssey. Or you could spend an extra thousand bucks for more space and larger windows, but why? No one spends time in their cabin on these trips.
Cruise West
Founded by Alaska tourism pioneer Chuck West and still run by his family, the line positions its small ships (78 to
114 passengers) in Alaska, the Pacific Northwest, Baja, Central America, and on the rivers of California's Napa and Sonoma valleys. (800-888-9378; cruisewest.com; $$$)
Best Ship: Spirit of Oceanus. The other vessels are almost interchangeable.
Why This One? Two-week Alaska/Bering Sea itineraries on the Spirit of Oceanus make standard Alaska Inside Passage cruises seem like the Circle Line. Historians and naturalists lead trips to native villages and wilderness areas in eastern Siberia and the most remote islands of western Alaska, including the wildlife-rich Pribilofs. As
far as we're concerned, meeting Yupik reindeer herders trumps cheesy gold-rush reenactments any day. The Oceanus is one of the most comfortable small ships in the business, with spacious, wood-paneled suites. In late 2005 she'll start wintering in the South Pacific, sailing from Honolulu, Papeete, Fiji, and Kobe, while spending Christmas Eve on Christmas Island. No dull conversations-Cruise West attracts smart eggs.
Why Not? High average passenger age (72 percent over age 62 on the Bering Sea cruises) makes for slow-paced group activities, though naturalists will take active types for hikes through the tundra.
Best Bet: As with Clipper Cruise Line's ships, snag the main-deck cabins-same size as the next level up, but $300 to $400 cheaper per person. The only difference is two big portholes instead of a picture window.
Lindblad Expeditions
The most learning-oriented expedition line. Lars-Eric Lindblad, father of current owner Sven Lindblad, pioneered Antarctic tourism in 1966 and got a cove named after him for his trouble. (800-397-3348; expeditions.com; $$$$)
Best Ship: Endeavour.
Why This One? Worldwide expeditions take you off the map, or at least to its edges. A boatload of scientists-biologists, geologists, and polar experts-on every cruise. Guests go offboard via Zodiac landing craft and kayaks, and an undersea specialist uses a tethered video camera to record what's going on 500 feet under the ice, screening his films for passengers in the evening.
Why Not? Anything but cheap. Antarctic voyages start at nearly $8,000 per person for a two-week cruise.
Best Bet: In November, the line traces the route of famed explorer Ernest Shackleton, and passengers can trek across South Georgia Island or explore its coast by sea before sailing on to the Falklands. Two-week sailings to Antarctica on December 15 and 26 include free airfare, saving you $1,000 per person.
Star Clippers
Dead ringers for the real thing, these gorgeous tall ships cut a sharp profile in the Caribbean, the Med, and the Far East. (800-442-0551; starclippers.com; $$)
Best Ships: Royal Clipper, Star Clipper, Star Flyer.
Why This One? Classic beauty, with sky-high masts and muscular deckhands for an authentic sailing vibe-just ignore the engines that kick in to keep the ship on schedule. Under full sail, the square-rigged Royal Clipper is breathtaking. Port-packed weeklong itineraries skip the crowds and go for the offbeat, from Les Saintes in the French Caribbean to Langkawi Island in Malaysia. Despite their Errol Flynn ambiance and smallish size (Star Clipper and Star Flyer carry 170 passengers, Royal Clipper carries 227), these ships don't skimp on amenities. All have comfy cabins, and Royal Clipper has a spa/gym and 14 suites with private balconies and hot tubs.
Why Not? Those prone to mal de mer should remember: In open seas, the smaller the ship, the more motion you can expect.
Best Bet: Crawling out into the bowsprit netting for a nap above the waves.
MAINSTREAM LINES
Politicians go centrist in order to attract more votes, and Buddhists seek the middle path. So why shouldn't these cruise lines, which appeal to as wide an audience as possible, do the same?
Celebrity Cruises
Striking 1,950-passenger megaships take furnishings and diversions to the edge. (800-437-3111; celebritycruises.com; $)
Best Ships: Millennium, Infinity, Summit, Constellation, and, for something a little different, the small (98-passenger) Xpedition.
Why This One? This megaship dÈcor takes its cue from cutting-edge onboard art, with pieces by Hockney, Koons, Botero, Borofsky, and Christo. PiËce de rÈsistance: the translucent, backlit onyx staircase that spans three decks of each ship's lobby. Dinners in the alternative restaurants (as opposed to the dining rooms) are themed around architectural pieces from the grand ocean liners, with excellent surroundings, music, and service. Menus, although with modern cuisine, also include dishes from the old ships, including the scrumptious Long Island duckling featured on the United States. Breaks from the standard cruise shtick include entertainment by Cirque
du Soleil. Prices are still low: You get a lot for rates that dip as low as $100 per person, per day. Celebrity Xpedition, the flagship of Celebrity's new adventure-travel program, has luxurious year-round sailings in the Gal·pagos.
Why Not? Size. Elegant or not, steer clear of the megaships if you don't think bigger is better.
Best Bet: Concierge Class Staterooms cost less but come with lots of suite-style extras, like a pillow menu, free Champagne, double-thick Frette bathrobes, high-powered binoculars for your balconies, and priority reservations for just about everything.
Celebrity Chef: Michel Roux.
Holland America Line
Old Dutch masters, with some traditionally designed vessels and, also, family-oriented megaships. There is no question about which ones we prefer. (877-724-5425; hollandamerica.com; $)
Best Ships: Rotterdam, Amsterdam.
Why This One? Classy cruise ships, heirs to Holland America vessels like the old Rotterdam V. Great, long 2005 itineraries: to South America and Asia for Amsterdam, the Med and Scandinavia for Rotterdam. Friendly service from Indonesian and Filipino staff, with nice touches like a uniformed bellboy announcing dinner with
a chime.
Why Not? Entertainment can be snoresville, and a sedate older crowd might mean sleepy nightlife.
Best Bet: Drinks and dancing in the classically shippy Ocean Bar, with waiters serving hors d'oeuvres and a piano trio on the bandstand. Go on formal night for the full effect.
Oceania Cruises
The successor to bankrupt Renaissance Cruises, with three of its handsome ships sailing long, leisurely itineraries in Europe, South America, and the Caribbean. (800-531-5658; oceaniacruises.com; $)
Best Ships: Regatta, Insignia, Nautica-all identical.
Why This One? A low-priced Radisson Seven Seas, with a country-club-casual dress code and a relaxed, hands-off atmosphere-no inane activities. Signature Tranquility Beds really are sublime, with extra-thick mattresses, Egyptian cotton sheets, thick duvets, and dreamy down pillows. Tasty menus are served in four open-seating restaurants, some walk-in, some by reservation, all with polished, friendly service. Even casual dining on deck is nice: under the stars, with hurricane-lamp lighting. Boutique-hotel intimate, with only 684 passengers per ship. Everything's a short walk away, lounges are roomy and plush, and dÈcor shoots for a ritzy vibe.
Why Not? Less than luxe on closer inspection, with faux bookcases and plastic balcony furniture dragging the mood back toward the middle.
Best Bet: Stern-view tables in the Polo Grill and Toscana specialty restaurants-ask when you reserve.
Celebrity Chef: Jacques Pepin.
Princess Cruises
The Love Boats of the 1970s have given way to some of the best-looking big vessels around. (800-774-6237; princess.com; $)
Best Ships: Diamond, Sapphire, Tahitian, Pacific.
Why This One? Diamond Princess and Sapphire Princess are the most attractive new megaships (2,600 passengers each) in years, built in Japan with exceptional attention to detail. While the Alaska and Mexico routes are just so-so, the 2005 Asia itineraries for Sapphire Princess buck the trend. Tahitian Princess and Pacific Princess (ships that once belonged to Renaissance Cruises) are quiet, intimate ships (680 passengers each) sailing to Polynesia, Hawaii, Australia, New Zealand, and up the Pacific Coast to Alaska. British and Italian officers and staff lend a traditional touch to an otherwise standard American line. Flexible dining: On Diamond Princess and Sapphire Princess you can go traditional all week in the main dining rooms or choose from four restaurants themed by cuisine-Asian, Italian, Southwestern, Steakhouse.
Why Not? No great sparks of inspiration here. Princess's image rests on just being "nice."
Best Bet: Standing in the wraparound bow of either the Diamond or the Sapphire at night, with the stars reflected in the sea, feels like flying into outer space. Or maybe the cayenne onion rings with ancho chili dip in the Sterling Steakhouse.
Royal Caribbean International
Sporty 2,100-passenger megaships focus on the Caribbean, Europe, Mexico, and Alaska. (800-327-6700; royalcaribbean.com; $)
Best Ships: Radiance of the Seas, Brilliance of the Seas, Serenade of the Seas, Jewel of the Seas.
Why This One? Easy on the eyes and tons of fun. You get a lot for a little on these affordable cruises. Blue heaven for sporty types, with rock-climbing walls, miniature golf, basketball courts, and gyroscopically balanced billiards tables. Napping nirvana in jungle-themed solaria: Waterfalls, wood and stone carvings, and lots of tropical foliage surround a central pool and hot tubs, with padded wooden chaises that make napping irresistible.
Why Not? On ships this big (with rates so low), there's no escaping some frat house buffoonery. Think Bud-chugging guys in sexy-legs contests.
Best Bet: Lovely stern-view lounges stretching across Deck 6. Low lights, soft seating, inlaid-wood flooring, and Oriental rugs set a romantic mood. |
