Boston Herald
April 1, 2004
Mohonk Mountain House Escape

Miles from civilization, Mohonk Mountain House rises up from the edges of a glassy lake atop a rocky ridge in the Shawangunk Mountains near New Paltz. From a rambling patchwork of century-old wooden and stone buildings, towers and chimneys poke the sky and dormers push out of steep shingled roofs. It's a Hogswartian sort of place, at least to Harry Potter fans and anyone else with a secret penchant for fairytales.

Nestled among 85 miles of hiking trails, the 2,200-acre hotel property sits right up against the 6,500-acre Mohonk Preserve and 2,700-acre Minnewaska State Park Preserve. From the trails, everywhere you look is a ridge of dramatic cliffs or sweeping valleys, pine barrens or streams.

Built between 1870 and 1910 by twin Quaker brothers Alfred and Albert Smiley in a combination of architectural styles, the eccentric mountain haven has held on to much of its original look.

Though the 251 rooms have been modernized over the past 20 years, the public areas are filled with thick banisters, ceiling beams, columns and pilasters in dark woods. The broad front porch is lined with rows of rocking chairs and inside, there are more than 150 wood-burning fireplaces. The stone porte cochere is a flashback, along with the rustic wooden 'summerhouses' (viewing gazebos) and staircases around the lake. The wide Oriental-carpet-covered hallway floors creak with age under walls covered with old black and white photos. Jackets are still required at dinner, and folksy entertainment like square dances are about as lively as evenings get. The place is dead by 10pm.

While many grand old hotels in the Catskills region have come and gone, the family-run Mohonk Mountain House has survived by both preserving its turn-of-the-century authenticity (it was named a National Historic Landmark in 1986) and rolling, albeit gently, with the times. In keeping with its chaste Quaker roots, no alcohol was served or sold until 1969, when it was offered in the dining room and through room service. You still won't find a bar in the hotel. There are no televisions in the rooms, though a few have been added to public lounges. And only in the summer of 2003 was the dining room air-conditioned. Other modern touches include an ATM and a new spa, gym and indoor pool complex that's being built.

This spectacular natural setting, along with the hotel's hominess and tradition, make the Mohonk Mountain House a great option for families in a region dominated by adults-only B&B's. There's plenty to do for all ages, from hiking to complimentary tennis, fishing, boating, swimming, guided nature walks, fitness classes, and ice-skating. For a fee, there are also carriage rides, horseback riding and golf.

Organized activities for teens are offered during the summer, and year-round for children 2 to 12.

Though there's plenty to do at the hotel, there is no shortage of art galleries, wineries and concerts in and around nearby New Paltz. Foodies may consider skipping the very standard fare at Mohonk for a night, and visiting an excellent local restaurant like the DePuy Canal House and Inn in nearby High Falls or the on-campus restaurants at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, just north of Poughkeepsie. Of course the area is best known for its excellent rock climbing in the Shawangunks. Day guides and equipment can be hired from several outfitters in New Paltz, including Mountain Skills Climbing School (845/687-9643). For those a little less adventurous, there's also excellent bicycling, horseback riding and kayaking. Go to www.newpaltzchamber.org for more information.

While fall is the busiest time of the year, when thousands of leaf peepers flock to the nature preserves, the hotel is open year-round. The calmer winter months offer guests not only more solitude, but also complimentary snowshoeing, snow tubing and cross-country skiing, as well as the greatest variety of theme programs, from language immersion to swing dancing.

As comfortable and down-to-earth as Mohonk is, the rates are pretty high-falutin. Double-occupancy prices range from $341 to $698 a night, and don't include a 15% gratuity and room tax. Rates do include three meals daily. During January, February and March, there are often discounted rates. Kids four and under are free, and those 4 to 12 are free during certain holidays. For more information, call 800/772-6646 or visit www.mohonk.com.