Travel Holiday
October 1, 2002
20 Things You Should Know About the Caribbean

Your last Caribbean getaway was perfect - but your next one can
be even better. How, you ask? Use these 20 tips to fine-tune a trip
to your own island paradise. Find out where you can guzzle an R-rated
milkshake (#4), steal someone's time-share (#16), find a keg party—or
avoid one (#3). Don't thank us now. Just think of us as you're dozing
off on a secluded stretch of sand (#14).

DODGE THE HERD Unless you want to share beaches and boutiques with
thousands of cruisers, avoid ports on days when the largest number
of ships are calling —or at least head into town after 4 P.M., when
most have pulled anchor. On St. Thomas, Charlotte Amalie is overrun
Wednesdays through Sundays, when as many as seven megaships line
up like a row of whitewashed SUVs. Skip San Juan on weekends, when
the port hosts four or five ships at a time. Unfortunately, there's
no one Caribbean-wide clearinghouse for this information, but each
island's tourism board can help you find the local shipping news
(turn to Essentials, page 118, for phone numbers).

SMALL WONDER Even in places such as Puerto Rico, Dominican Republic,
the Bahamas, and St. Thomas - all known for their big, bustling
resorts - there are smaller hotels and inns offering a low-key,
lower priced getaway. What more intimate properties don't have in
the way of entertainment, they make up for in solitude. On Puerto
Rico (www.prhtasmallhotels.com), finds such as the South Beach-chic
Water Club, the Gallery Inn, the Hotel Milano, and the homey Lemon
Tree Waterfront Suites have charm the island's high-rises could
never muster. For more, check out inns on St. Thomas and St. John
(www.sttstjhta.com) and St. Croix.

ESCAPE SPRING BREAK You don't have to steer entirely clear of party-hearty
Cancun, the Bahamas, and Jamaica from late February through April,
but if you don't want to find that the hottest kegger in town is
in the room next door, book carefully. For hotels the Jose Cuervo
crowd might favor this year, surf Spring Break sites such as Student
Travel Services (www.ststravel.com; 800-648-4849). In Cancun, popular
spots include the Cancun Oasis, Miramar Mision, and Girisol; in
Nassau, think twice before booking the Beach Hotel, Towne Hotel,
and Colony Club.

RUM'S THE WORD No, this Caribbean liquor isn't just for drinks with
little umbrellas: We'd stack an aged, premium rum up against brandy
any day. And since sugarcane is one of the largest industries in
the islands, there's no better place to try one. The best of the
batch are Jamaica's Sea Wynde Pot Still Rum ($40), Grenada's Westerhall
Plantation Rum ($20), and Barbados' Foursquare Spiced Rum ($18).
Or stop by Nassau's Bahamas Rum Cake Factory for buttery, rumsoaked
sweets—and milkshakes with a kick.

INN SYNC For a true Caribbean coup, try this: Stay at an intimate
inn that shares facilities with its neighbors. In Nevis, the 200-year-old,
16-room Golden Rock Plantation Inn (www.golden-rock.com; 869-469-3346)
has teamed up with the Hermitage, the Montpelier, and the Old Manor
to give one another's guests access to their riding stables and
restaurants. On Turks & Caicos' tiny North Caicos island, the Ocean
Beach Hotel (www.oceanbeach.tc), Pelican Beach Hotel, and Prospect
of Whitby (www.prospectofwhitby.com) share their watersports equipment,
and guests can also sign up for communal diving trips.

IF THE ROOM FITS... Like airlines, all-inclusive resorts offer incentives
to lure repeat customers. Stay at one of Couples' three Jamaica
all-inclusives more than once, and you'll get first dibs on room-rate
discounts and even free airfare from Montego Bay to either Ocho
Rios or Negril (a $100 value). They'll also throw in a 30-minute
massage (www.couples.com; 800-268-7537). Sandals (www.sandals.com;
888-726-3257), Beaches (www.beaches.com; 888-232-2437), SuperClubs
(www.superclubs.com; 877-467-8737), and Breezes (www.breezes.com;
877-467-8737) also dole out discounts, upgrades, and private parties
to repeaters.

THE FLIGHT THAT ATE YOUR TRIP Tobago, Les Saintes, and the Turks
& Caicos are unspoiled—partly because they're so hard to reach.
Multiple connections, puddle jumpers, and boat rides can make a
long weekend to these idyllic isles more trouble than it's worth.
(From Miami, you'll need to change planes three times to get to
Tobago.) The verdict: You can easily waste a day on each end traveling,
which means less time under your beach umbrella. Choose these islands
only when you have more than a few days to spare.

RUNAWAY BRIDE It's easy to tie the knot on most Caribbean islands,
where all you need to do is fill out paperwork, pay a license fee,
and be on the island for a few days. But it's a different story
on the French islands of Guadeloupe, St. Barts, Les Saintes, and
Martinique. One of you will need to hang out there for 30 days before
they'll give you a marriage license. The solution: Get married elsewhere
—the Bahamas, Jamaica, and St. Lucia are among the easiest, with
one- to two-day residency requirements—then honeymoon with, say,
Martinique's dramatic Pelée volcano in the backdrop.

DON'T WING IT Rather spend your money at the hotel than getting
to it? Ferry between islands instead of flying. For example, hop
between St. Maarten and St. Barts on the hour-and-a-half highspeed
ferry. It's $67 round-trip, compared with $150 and up for a 15-minute
flight (Voyager; 011-590-590-27-54-10). Other pleasant rides include
the three-mile route between St. Thomas and St. John (45 minutes;
$7 each way; Varlack Ventures; 340-776-6412) and Bahamas Fast Ferries'
daily service between Nassau and Eleuthera (from $55 one-way; www.bahamasferries.com).
The downside? A little rain can cramp your style.

IN GOOD HANDS These days, you can get a massage in a windowless
room at most strip malls—in the Caribbean, make yours al fresco
instead. At Iberostar Bavaro in Punta Cana, Dominican Republic,
you get rubbed down in a thatched beach cottage (www.Iberostar.com;
888-923-2722). At Sans Souci Grand Lido in Ocho Rios, Jamaica, treatments
take place in a hut that juts above the crashing surf (www.superclubs.com).
Couples staying at the Grand Lido Braco in Trelawny have massages
out in the open, and in the buff (www.superclubs.com; 877-467-8737).
Just leave your modesty, and your jewelry, in the room.

DR. JEKYLL AND MR. ISLE Most islands have split personalities: One
side is sheltered and calm, the other is right in the path of the
Atlantic's strong gusts. If you don't need to go in the water, then
the rocky coastline and rough surf of a windward coast create a
gorgeous natural setting. But for safe swimming and snorkeling,
head to the leeward side of an island (usually the western side),
such as Barbados' Gold Coast, Aruba's Turquoise Coast, and Tobago's
southwestern coast.

NOW DISAPPEARING... Some of our favorite slivers of sand are also
the most unpredictable. Depending on tides, wind, and weather conditions,
they're here one day and under surf the next. On Dutch St. Maarten,
Cupecoy Beach is an ultra-remote spot framed by dramatic caves and
sandstone cliffs. Hint: The far western end of the beach usually
escapes high tide. Another find? The western shoreline of tiny Tortola
has sparkling patches of powder that are revealed at low tide. For
your best chance of hitting dry land, check the tide tables in the
local newspaper.

JUMP THE FENCE Resorts, especially all-inclusives, offer meals,
drinks, beaches, entertainment—often just steps from your room.
But that doesn't mean you shouldn't see the island. There are great
reasons to hightail it off the hammock: In Jamaica, tube down the
White River (White River Valley Ltd.; 876-974-2017). A trek through
Grenada's Grand Etang rainforest ends with a swim at the Seven Sisters
Waterfalls (Mandoo Tours; www.grenadatours.com; 473-440-1428). Or,
get close to Bonaire's angelfish (Touch the Sea; wwwtouchthesea.
com; 303-816-1727).

UNCHARTED SANDS Secluded stretches of beach are out there—they're
just harder to find. Take Anguilla's Little Bay. This tiny half-moon
piece of sand, sheltered by gorgeous cliffs, is accessible via a
five minute boat ride on Carl's Water Taxi for just a few dollars
(board in Crocus Bay). On St. Barts, the white sands of quiet Colombier
beach are a 10-minute shuttle-boat ride from crowded Gustavia—or
a 30-minute stroll along a picturesque trail beginning at Petite
Anse. For a nice beach that's easier to reach, take a 10-minute
taxi ride from Puerto Rico's bustling Old San Juan to the beach
neighborhoods of Condado and Ocean Park.

MAKE OR BRAKE? A rental car is great for exploring the undeveloped
parts of an island, but pick your destination carefully. Aruba and
St. Barts are good bets: With few roads, there's little chance for
a wrong turn. Flat islands (such as Grand Cayman) and islands with
excellent signage (think Guadeloupe) are also good places to rent
wheels. Ones to avoid? Barbados, where the road signs are confusing;
Jamaica and the Dominican Republic, where drivers can be targets
for crime; and Tortola and Dominica, where hairpin turns may offer
more adventure than you bargained for.

BORROW THE KEYS If you're traveling with the clan, you probably
want—make that need—more than just a couple of beds and a single
bathroom. You're in luck: Time-share owners eagerly rent out their
empty pads when they're off-island, and you'll get extra space and
savings. Rent an apartment at Costa Linda on Eagle Beach in Aruba,
and your huge two-bedroom unit with a kitchen and a balcony will
cost you about $150 a night. Aruba (Independent Timeshare Resales;
011-2978-80041), and the Dominican Republic (RCI Holiday Network;
800-730-9981) have a lot to choose from.

THE SPICE IS RIGHT If you plan to bring home some of Grenada's legendary
nutmeg, know this: Time is of the essence. Nutmeg doesn't improve
with age, so you want the freshest you can buy. When shopping, carry
a small sewing needle (just call us Heloise), and before you make
a purchase, insert your needle into the nut's meat. If you see a
drop of oil, buy it—if not, keep looking.

BUSINESS UNUSUAL Can't leave the office behind? Bring it with you.
The British Colonial Hilton Nassau offers the "Office Al Fresco"
program, where poolside lounges come outfitted with lap desks, and
an “Aqua Assistant” (we're not making this up!) can send faxes when
your hands are soggy from frozen daiquiris. A half-dozen other Caribbean
Hiltons should go "Al Fresco" soon, too (www.hilton.com).
If you need to be Web-connected, consider Puerto Rico, where Internet
service is reliable. There, the Westin Rio Mar Beach Resort & Country
Club has an impressive business center with assistants on hand to
whip up memos (www.westinriomar.com; 888-627-8556). But business
travelers don't have to settle for a chain anymore: Kurá Hulanda
on Curaao even has translation services (www.kurahulanda.com; 888-660-2225).

SURPRISE! IT'S OFF-SEASON Think a winter escape, when it's cold
and wet in the States, is always more expensive than summer? Think
again. August, September, and October are traditionally slow—and
therefore cheaper—but so are November and early December (before
Christmas), and January and early February (before President's Day).
Need proof? Rates at Barbados' all-inclusives, the Almond Club &
Spa and the Almond Village, drop 50 percent through December 20
(gardenview rooms start at $250 per couple per night; www.almondresorts.com;
800-425-6663). If you want to go luxe, the 85-room Bitter End Yacht
Club on Virgin Gorda also slashes tariffs by up to 50 percent off
the $770-a-night high-season rates (including meals, excursions,
and boating). It's still steep, but they throw in sailing lessons
(www.beyc.com; 800-872-2392).

GOING LOCAL On some islands, looking for a bit of culture takes
you way beyond the beach. Guadeloupe's Grande-Terre villages, where
locals still get around on oxcarts and gather for nightly cockfighting
bouts (yes, it's legal), offer an authentic look at daily life.
For a quick culture fix, visit the islands during Mardi Gras (beginning
March 4 this year) when villagers turn out to celebrate their heritage,
music, and cuisine—and, of course, to party. In Trinidad, the calypso
music can lure even die-hard beach-magnets off the sand and into
the island fray.