Boston Herald
March 15, 1998
Wild and Woolly Aruba

There's more to Aruba than a seven-mile strip of ocean-front high-rise
hotels, wide white-sand beach, and countless casinos and restaurants.
If you harbor an adventurous streak, there's a raw and rugged side
to Aruba that's refreshingly natural and undeveloped, and beckons
to be explored.

Just six miles at its widest point and 20 at its longest, Aruba
is shaped more or less like a triangle; one side faces west and
is home to the hotels and beaches, and along the southern side are
the airport, capital city of Oranjestad, and an oil refinery. It's
Aruba's northern half that is wild and woolly ó a dry, wind-swept
collage of cacti, rock, and the island's signature Divi Divi trees.
To explore this part of the island, rent a four-wheel drive ó convertible
Suzuki Samurais seem to be the most popular ó from one of the airport
agencies for about $60 a day.

But before you set out on a self-guided tour, don't forget to pack
sunscreen, lots of water, a map from the rental agency, a bathing-suit,
and a good attitude. Exploring Aruba's natural side is a dusty,
messy affair considering most roads are dirt, but well worth its
weight in grime. Half the fun is getting there, your sweaty hands
clutching the map as the jeep lurches up and over the lumpy, bumpy
roadways. And, don't worry about getting lost, the locals say just
follow the direction the Divi Divi trees are blowing ó always west
toward the hotels.

Following the system of roads that circle the perimeter of the island,
start your journey clockwise from the airport. Head back past the
hotel strip and on to the island's northwestern-most point. Here,
the California Lighthouse, named for a ship that wrecked in the
area nearly a century ago, affords sweeping 360-degree views of
the island. (Tour the island counter-clockwise, and you'll hit the
Lighthouse in time to watch the magnificent sunset melt into the
sea.)

By the time you reach the Lighthouse, you've already entered Aruba's
twilight zone. From here on, your four-wheel-drive adventure will
take you into the island's moon-like terrain, past huge heaps of
giant boulders and barren rocky coastlines. The smooth, well-maintained
road system that links together the hotel strip and Oranjestad transforms
itself into a single band of rubble, and the calm, bright turquoise
sea turns rough and rowdy. Reaching the Alto Vista Chapel, about
five miles or so from the Lighthouse, chances are a thin film of
red dust has already coated you and the jeep. But don't let that
stop you from having a peek inside the quaint pale-yellow church
that sits atop a small hill. From its solitary perch, enjoy breathtaking
views.

Further along on the northern coast, you'll approach the hulking
ruins of the Bushiribana Gold Smelter amidst a desolate stretch
of parched landscape. Don't bother stopping for a closer look at
its graffitied walls, though, its impact is more powerful from a
distance. Just beyond it is the Natural Bridge, one of Aruba's most
popular attractions. Over the centuries, the crashing ocean surf
and whipping wind crafted this "bridge" out of the vulnerable coral
rock. With its campy colored lights and used-car-lot metallic fringes
strung across the ceiling, you may find the adjacent "Thirst Aid
Station" restaurant to be an interesting site itself; and one of
the few places to grab a couple of cold drinks and a sandwich before
hitting the road again. Just before the Gold Smelter and Natural
Bridge, keep a look out for secluded beach coves. While some are
littered with plastic bottles and debris, just as many are pristine
patches of paradise. Often just 50-100 feet from the road, the craggy
coast opens up to random wedges of protected beach and shallow water,
perfect for a dip. Next, veer off towards the center of the island
to check out a set of bizarre rock formations, Ayo and Casibari.
Somewhat of a mystery even to geologists, it's as though the random
piles of massive boulders have been dropped from the sky. If you
can handle the gusting winds, climb to the top of the mound for
great views. Further east along the desolate northern coast is a
series of caves, punched into the cliff-sides of this area's mesas.
Have a look inside the graffiti- covered, bat-inhabited Guadirikiri,
Fontein, and Tunnel of Love caves; rent flashlights for $6 a piece
(there's no admission charge).

Heading southeast towards Aruba's behemoth oil refinery is Baby
Beach, at the island's easternmost point. Like a great big bathtub,
this shallow bowl of warm turquoise water is protected by an almost
complete circle of rock, and is a great place for a peaceful dip
after a sweaty day behind the wheel. If you can't bear the thought
of exploring Aruba's wild side alone, several local operators run
jeep tours around the island. Drive in a convoy or ride along in
the guide's jeep. Whether you choose self-guided or group tour,
don't miss venturing into Aruba's untamed countryside for the sheer
thrill of it.